Ali’s Trans Canada Trail: Winter on the Slocan Valley Rail Trail
Written by Ali Becker
I think that winter in Canada is one of the most magical times of the year. The crisp, clear air, the frost-lined leaves, and the cloak of stark white snow that turns everything into a Norman Rockwell painting — it truly is a winter wonderland, which we are blessed to bear witness to.
But perhaps, what I love most about winter is that it revitalizes the way I think about — and interact with — the landscapes that I love. Views, trees and trails that I’ve grown accustomed to over spring, summer and fall are brought back to my attention in a new and vivid way.
This renewed sense of wonder and awe for my surroundings inspires me to break out the cross-country skis, fat bikes or snowshoes and go slide, glide and surf along the Earth’s surface in a way only available to me in these fleeting frozen months.
I find myself called back
Photo credit: Ali Becker
And year after year, no matter how far I’ve roamed on this giant spinning rock, I find myself called back to one of the most enchanting places in which to revel in this winter fun, and that is the one and only Slocan Valley Rail Trail.
Starting at the south end of Slocan Lake, the Slocan Valley Rail Trail (SVRT) is a 50-kilometre-long, scenic spur of the Trans Canada Trail that meanders alongside the majestic Slocan River in the Kootenay Rockies region of southeastern British Columbia.
While the SVRT is a four-season playground for locals and visitors alike — perfect for bike rides, trail runs, dog walks and horse trots through the warmer months — I love it most when this historic railbed turned recreation trail has been reimagined with a firm coat of cold snow.
Perfectly packed down by the avid trail users and the resident volunteer group which runs the trail groomer — the cross-country ski tracks are always etched in with integrity, open anytime to anyone who’s ready and willing to slide in and set off on an adventure.
With trailhead access in abundance, there are plenty of places to park along the SVRT and effortlessly enter into the tracks, but my preference is to begin at the headwaters of the river in the charming village of Slocan and flow downstream with the current.
The trail quickly quiets
Photo credit: Ali Becker
Leaving behind the blissful views of the Valhalla mountains that tower over the town, the trail quickly quiets, and the tree-lined tracks lull me along as I slowly slide towards the peek-a-boo views of Swarak’xn (Frog Mountain) to the south.
Before long, I find myself in the flow of my stride, the sturdy skis below me becoming an extension of my legs, the warm air from my lungs fogging and vanishing in front of my smile while the sun’s rays glisten and glimmer off the sides of the snowflakes.
This particular stretch always makes me feel so connected with the land, imagining the lives and stories of the many peoples who traversed these waters and mountainsides for thousands of years before I arrived.
Along the Slocan River: the wintering site for the largest waterfowl in the world
Photo credit: Ali Becker
Immersed in the forest’s song, I almost glide right by one of the most stunning shoreline spectacles on this stretch of the trail. Nearby, the Lemon Creek tributary, accessible by Mon Ami Road, is the wintering site for a large group of big, beautiful Tundra and Trumpeter swans.
Juxtaposed against the bright, blue waters of the river, these large, snow-white swans are perfectly poised, elegantly gliding their way around the marsh, feasting, chanting and showing off their wide-open wingspan.
In fact, the mesmerizing Trumpeter swans are the largest waterfowl in the world, and the largest flying bird native to North America. They even have a special down that allows them to stay warm against the frigid temperatures of these wintery waterways.
Continuing south along the trail, my face lights up as I see the first of many picturesque view spots with their accompanying, handmade benches — purposefully propped up above the snow. These benches are the perfect spots to stop for a snack, a sip of hot tea and a short rest.
Keeping the expedition going
Photo credit: Ali Becker
With the weather on my side, I decide to keep the expedition going, weaving and bobbing away from and towards the water’s edge along the trail, changing up the views and keeping the adventure interesting and immersive with each twist and turn.
I find myself swooshing along the Slocan Valley for hours — lost in time, beauty and space — before I decide to turn back on the parallelling tracks so I can soak in the magnificent views from the other direction.
For me, this is what winter is all about. Getting outside, immersing in nature, moving my body and reconnecting with the land. It’s the single greatest way to beat the winter blues, stay happy and healthy amongst the challenges of life, and explore the beauty of this magnificent planet.
We are all — always at choice — invited to bask in the unique offerings of every season, knowing that everything in life is impermanent; ever-changing. Best to enjoy all of it while we can.
Ali Becker is a freelance writer and adventure storyteller who loves to meander in the great outdoors with her partner, Mathieu Leblanc. Together, they create digital content about nature, adventure and well-being with the hopes of inspiring others to get outside and live their best life.
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Feature photo credit: Mathieu Leblanc
