16 November, 2024

Vanessa’s Trans Canada Trail: Hiking in Gatineau Park

A picturesque hillside view filled with colorful fall foliage, displaying a stunning array of autumn leaves. Une vue pittoresque à flanc de colline remplie de feuillage d'automne coloré, affichant une étonnante gamme de feuilles d'automne.

Written by Vanessa Racine, translated from French

If you ask anyone who lives in the Ottawa-Gatineau region where the best place to hike is near the nation’s capital, chances are good they’ll say Gatineau Park. Which is understandable! This vast park protects rich biodiversity. It covers 361 square kilometres and boasts several kilometres of trails.

For me, Gatineau Park is like an old friend: one I’ve visited several times, but that I sometimes neglect, opting to visit less familiar places. But it’s a friend I always enjoy meeting again, and who, despite my many visits, continues to surprise and amaze me.

So, I was delighted to return to Gatineau Park on a beautiful fall weekend. This time, I was going to do a different hike than what I usually do: I wanted to hike from north to south, following the section of the Trans Canada Trail that runs through it — all 42 kilometres, which I intended to cover in two days.

One step at a time: Mont-Bleu to Pink Lake

A serene wooden bridge spans across Pink Lake, surrounded by lush greenery and reflecting the clear blue sky. Un paisible pont en bois enjambe le lac Pink, entouré d'une végétation luxuriante et reflétant le ciel bleu clair.

My hike kicked off in Gatineau’s Mont-Bleu neighbourhood, where the Trans Canada Trail leaves the city and winds its way through the park’s lovely mixed forest. I took my first steps on the Trail in Gatineau Park with a mix of excitement and worry. I couldn’t believe I was going to walk all the way to the village of Wakefield, Quebec. It seemed so far away.

One step at a time! My first steps of this adventure were taken on a bike path – the perfect way to find my rhythm, before the Trans Canada Trail left the paved trail for a steeper, rockier one. This rugged terrain, typical of the Canadian Shield, is one of the reasons this park is so popular with hikers.

It felt like the first few kilometres flew by. This part of Gatineau Park was familiar to me, as the Trans Canada Trail passes alongside some of the region’s must-sees. I took a detour off the Trail to Pink Lake, a meromictic lake (where the the deep and shallow waters don’t mix), with a distinctive green colour.

Under the park’s spell

A serene hiking trail winding through the lush woods of Gatineau Park, inviting exploration and adventure. Un sentier de randonnée serein qui serpente dans les bois luxuriants du parc de la Gatineau, invitant à l'exploration et à l'aventure.

I also took a detour off the Trail to visit the Mackenzie King Estate, the former summer residence of Prime Minister William Lyon Mackenzie King. The estate is renowned for its magnificent landscaping, gardens and architectural ruins.

My hike along the Trail was surprisingly peaceful. In such a popular place as Gatineau Park, it can sometimes be hard to find a little peace and quiet on its busy trails, especially in the fall. This longer hike allowed me to fall under the park’s spell once again.

Almost 20 kilometres later, just as my legs were getting really tired, I arrived at beautiful Meech Lake and decided to call it a day.

One of the park’s most captivating spots

I returned to where I had wrapped up the day before, motivated to continue my journey northwards. I had more than 20 kilometres left to go before arriving in Wakefield, so I promised myself that I would avoid detours like the day before and concentrate solely on following the Trail.

I respected this promise for about 15 minutes … I couldn’t resist heading over to the famous Carbide Willson Ruins, without a doubt one of the park’s most captivating spots.

Slowing down and savouring every step

A peaceful scene of a boat on a calm lake, bordered by vibrant trees, showcasing the harmony of nature. Une scène paisible d'un bateau sur un lac calme, bordé d'arbres vibrants, mettant en valeur l'harmonie de la nature.

For the next 10 kilometres, I crossed a section of Gatineau Park that I was less familiar with. I skirted Meech Lake, passed the Healey day shelter and continued up and down between the rocky escarpments. I felt tired more quickly than the day before, but at the same time, I didn’t feel the distance passing.

The arrival at Philippe Lake almost took me by surprise. I knew that walking around this large lake was one of the last steps before arriving in Wakefield. And since that part of the park is my favourite, I slowed down and enjoyed every step. I arrived in Wakefield;, exhausted but very proud to have completed my journey. It was such a great way to rediscover the park that I love so much!

Vanessa Racine is a former journalist who now works in communications in Ottawa. Passionate about the outdoors, wide-open spaces, travel and writing, she shares her hiking stories on her blog, and on Facebook and Instagram. 

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